A ductless mini split is an air conditioning system that cools a room through a wall-mounted indoor unit connected to an outdoor condenser by a refrigerant line, with no ductwork anywhere. TLS Air Conditioning installs and repairs ductless systems in ten Florida counties. Single-zone installation runs $2,500 to $6,000 in this market.
TLS started as a ductless mini split company, and everything else the business does grew out of that. It is why a TLS mini split is sized by calculation, not by the square footage of the room.
Call 941-269-3433. Florida State Certified contractor, licence CAC1822364.
A ductless mini split works by moving refrigerant, not air, between an outdoor condensing unit and one or more indoor air handlers. Each indoor unit holds its own evaporator coil and fan, so it cools the room it is mounted in directly. The only connection between outside and inside is a refrigerant line set.
TLS has installed and repaired these systems since 2015, before the business did anything else. A TLS employee surveys the room, runs the load calculation, and agrees the head position and the line-set route with you before a hole is cut — and the price is in writing before any of that.
A ducted central system cools air at one coil and pushes it through the house.
A ductless system skips that step, which removes the largest source of waste in a Florida cooling system: the Department of Energy’s Building America programme puts duct losses at more than 30% of heating and cooling energy consumption when the ducts run through an unconditioned space, and in most Florida homes they run through a 130-degree attic.
If your ducted system is the thing losing the air, that is a ductwork job, not this one.
Four components, in the order refrigerant travels through them.
The outdoor condensing unit is the component of a ductless mini split that houses the compressor, the condenser coil and the outdoor fan. It rejects the heat pulled out of your rooms into the outside air. One outdoor unit serves one indoor head on a single-zone system, or up to five on a multi-zone.
Outdoor units sit on a wall bracket or a small pad and take far less space than a central condenser. On the barrier islands and the Cape Coral canals that coil is what salt air attacks first, which is why a protective coating is worth its $200 to $400 at installation. TLS chooses the location with you — clear of a bedroom wall, clear of the fence line, with room to service it — and puts the coastal coating on the estimate as a visible line rather than leaving it off to make the total look smaller.
The indoor air handler is the component of a ductless mini split that hangs inside the room and does the cooling. It contains an evaporator coil, a barrel-shaped blower wheel and a washable filter, and it runs at roughly 20 to 30 decibels. Each head has its own thermostat and its own remote.
Wall-mounted heads high on an exterior wall are the common form. Ceiling cassettes, floor consoles and slim heads hidden above a closet all connect the same way, and the choice is decided by where the line set can reach. The position on the wall is marked and agreed with you before anything is drilled, because it decides where the air throws and where the line set runs.
The line set is the bundle that connects a ductless mini split’s indoor and outdoor units, carrying two insulated copper refrigerant lines, the control wiring and the condensate drain. It passes through a single hole in the exterior wall roughly three inches across. That one penetration is the entire structural impact of a ductless installation.
TLS walks the route with you first: where the line set leaves the room, where it drops down the outside wall, and whether it gets a slimline cover. Every copper joint on it is a flare connection, made by hand and torqued to specification, and flare joints are the commonest source of the slow refrigerant leaks that eventually kill a mini split compressor. Before refrigerant goes in the lines are evacuated below 500 microns on a calibrated gauge, because moisture left inside combines with refrigerant oil to form acid. Neither step is visible on the day, which is why ductless installation quality shows up two years later.
The inverter is the variable-speed drive that lets a ductless mini split’s compressor run at any output between roughly 20% and 100% of capacity rather than only on or off. A conventional central compressor has two states. An inverter compressor throttles, so it can match a small load with a small amount of cooling.
That difference is what makes a mini split behave well in Florida. A compressor that modulates settles into a long slow run instead of blasting the room cold and stopping, and a long slow run is what pulls water out of the air. It is also why TLS sizes to the calculated load rather than to the biggest head the condenser will carry: an inverter parked at its minimum output all year is an expensive fixed-speed compressor.
A correctly sized mini split controls humidity better than an oversized central system because its inverter compressor runs long and slow instead of cycling on and off. Moisture only leaves the air while the coil is cold and air is passing over it, so longer run time removes more water. Florida’s average relative humidity sits near 71%.
TLS sizes for the wet load as well as the dry one. The load calculation run on your room separates the sensible cooling from the latent moisture removal, and the head specified is the one still running at three o’clock on an August afternoon rather than the one that shut off at 2:40 with the water still in the room.
Cooling and drying are two jobs done by one coil, and they need different things. Cooling happens fast. Drying does not — the coil has to stay below the dew point long enough for water to condense and run to the drain. A system that satisfies the thermostat in eight minutes has cooled the room and left the water in it, which is the clammy 74-degree bedroom that feels worse than a warmer one.
Tampa runs about 3,928 cooling degree days a year against a US average of 1,633, and does that work in air that stays wet for eight months.
A ductless mini split is the right answer wherever a room needs cooling and running ductwork to it is impractical or impossible. The eight recurring Florida cases are a home addition, a converted garage, an enclosed lanai, a bonus room, a room the ducts never reached, a workshop, an older home, and a guest suite.
TLS surveys the room before quoting it, free and with no obligation at the end of it. The survey measures the glass area, the orientation, the ceiling height and the insulation, and it checks whether your existing ducted system is starving that room rather than missing it — because if it is, the honest fix is duct work and we will tell you so.
Ordered by how often TLS is called for each.
An addition is new conditioned square footage on a house whose system was sized for the old footprint. That system is now undersized, and a mini split on the addition fixes it without touching equipment that works today.
A garage conversion is a room with an uninsulated slab, a large uninsulated door panel and no duct branch near it, and it is the commonest ductless job in Pinellas and Hillsborough. One head and one line set make it usable in August.
A Florida room is an enclosed porch built with more glass than wall and less insulation than the house it adjoins. Its load swings enormously from morning to afternoon, which an inverter compressor handles well and a single-speed one badly.
A bonus room over a garage is the hottest room in most Florida houses, taking heat from the garage below and the roof above. Central ducts arrive weak after a long run through hot attic, so a dedicated head fixes the room instead of compensating for it.
One room five degrees warmer than the rest of the house year after year is a duct or airflow problem, and sometimes the honest fix is duct replacement. When the run cannot be rebuilt, a mini split is the answer.
A detached structure has no duct path to the house and rarely justifies one. A single-zone mini split conditions a workshop for a fraction of what extending a central system costs.
Houses built in Pinellas and Sarasota before central air was standard have low ceilings, no soffits and shallow attics, so retrofitting ducts costs a ceiling or a closet every time.
A guest suite needs its own temperature on its own schedule, without cooling the whole house for one occupied bedroom. Independent control is the point of a zone.
Choose single-zone for one room and multi-zone for three or more. A single-zone mini split pairs one outdoor unit with one indoor head. A multi-zone mini split runs two to five heads from one outdoor unit, saving outdoor space and one set of electrical work, at the cost of a shared point of failure.
The zone count on a TLS quote comes out of the load calculation and out of a conversation about how the family actually uses the rooms — which doors stay shut, which bedroom has to be cold at ten at night, which room sits empty five months a year. That conversation happens before the equipment is specified, not after it has been delivered.
| Single-zone | Multi-zone | |
|---|---|---|
| Indoor heads per outdoor unit | 1 | 2 to 5, set by the condenser’s port count |
| Outdoor units needed for 3 rooms | 3 | 1 |
| If the outdoor unit fails | That room stops cooling | Every room stops cooling |
| Efficiency | Slightly higher — compressor matched to one load | Slightly lower — refrigerant split across several line sets |
| Sensitivity to sizing error | Moderate | High |
| Adding a room later | New system | Only if a spare port was planned in |
One outdoor unit serving four heads is one compressor, one set of electronics and one failure that takes the whole house offline. Three single-zone systems cost more and cannot all fail at once. TLS puts that choice in front of you before the equipment is ordered rather than after.
A multi-zone condenser has a minimum output it cannot go below. Run one small head off a large condenser on a mild evening and the compressor sits at its floor, cycling, drying nothing. With all four heads calling it behaves perfectly, so multi-zone is designed around how the family uses the rooms.
Most oversized mini splits were sized from a room’s square footage rather than from a load calculation. Rules of thumb such as 20 BTU per square foot ignore ceiling height, glass area, insulation, shading and orientation, all of which move the real number substantially. An oversized unit costs more to buy and dehumidifies worse.
TLS runs an ACCA Manual J calculation on every ductless job, once per zone, and you get the completed calculation with your quote. Your glass area, orientation, ceiling height, insulation and infiltration go in, a BTU figure comes out, and that figure sits on the estimate beside the model number so you can see what the capacity was based on. It is twenty minutes of arithmetic that decides whether you spend the next twelve years in a dry room or a cold clammy one, and it is the reason to pay a contractor instead of buying a head online.
Oversizing is the commonest failure on ductless work, and worse here than on ducted equipment because ductless units are so often sold on room area alone — by an online retailer, a big-box store, or a contractor working from a chart. A central system at least gets a sanity check from the existing ductwork. A mini split gets nothing.
On ductless the calculation is run twice: once for the whole conditioned space, and once per zone, one calculation per indoor head. A house-level figure will not tell you whether the head in the bonus room is twice the size that room needs. The Department of Energy’s guidance is explicit that oversized or badly located indoor units short cycle and waste energy.
Sizing ductless is harder than sizing a central system — there is no ductwork to average out the error, and every head is its own load. Eleven years of doing exactly that is why every system this company installs now, ducted or ductless, starts with a calculation, and why a ductless job here is not the small one squeezed between two real ones.
Every other contractor in this market arrived at ductless from the other direction: central first, one mini split page added afterwards. Two brothers started TLS on this work, and you can read about TLS Air Conditioning if you want the rest of it.
An oversized mini split cannot be repaired into a correctly sized one. It is the one fault on this page with no fix but replacement, which is why the twenty minutes happens before the order and not after the complaint.
Ductless mini split installation in Florida costs $2,500 to $6,000 for a single-zone system and $4,500 to $14,000 for a multi-zone system, installed. Zone count moves the number more than any other factor, followed by head type and electrical work. A permit costs $150 to $400 and is required everywhere in Florida.
The number on a TLS estimate is the number on the invoice. It is worked out in your home after the survey and the load calculation, written down before anything is ordered, and held there by the No Change Order Guarantee — anything missed at design stage is TLS’s cost, not yours. If a like-for-like written quote from another licensed Florida contractor comes in lower, the Lowest Price Guarantee matches it and credits you the difference.
Tampa Bay and Southwest Florida market, reviewed August 2026. These are ranges, not quotes — your exact price is confirmed in writing after diagnosis and does not move after that.
| System | Typical installed range | What moves the number |
|---|---|---|
| Single-zone, one head | $2,500 – $6,000 | Head capacity, 9,000 to 24,000 BTU, and line set length |
| Two-zone | $4,500 – $8,500 | The second head costs less than the first |
| Three-zone | $6,000 – $11,500 | Port count and routing to the furthest head |
| Four-zone | $8,000 – $14,000 | Whole-home capacity; load calculation matters most here |
| Each extra head on a planned system | $1,500 – $2,500 | Cheaper when the port was designed in |
| Dedicated circuit or sub-panel work | $500 – $900 | Older Florida panels often have no spare capacity |
| Coastal protective coil coating | $200 – $400 | Worth it within a few miles of open water |
| Building permit | $150 – $400 | Set by your county, not by us |
Most ductless mini split repairs in Florida cost between $150 and $1,500. A condensate drain clearing runs $150 to $350, a control board $300 to $800, and a compressor replacement $800 to $1,600. A $125 diagnostic fee applies, waived for Comfort Club members, and the ductless repair is priced in writing before a panel comes off.
| Ductless repair | Typical range | What moves the number |
|---|---|---|
| Condensate drain clearing | $150 – $350 | Gravity drain or condensate pump |
| Thermistor or sensor replacement | $125 – $350 | An error code shortens the diagnosis |
| Capacitor or fuse | $150 – $350 | Part availability by brand, not part cost |
| Blower wheel cleaning or blower motor | $300 – $800 | A fouled wheel is a clean; a failed motor is a part |
| Inverter or control board replacement | $300 – $800 | Brand-specific, and often the long-lead item |
| Refrigerant leak, found and repaired | $250 – $1,500 | A flare joint is cheap, a coil is not |
| Compressor replacement | $800 – $1,600 | Past twelve years, get a replacement number first |
TLS installs a ductless mini split in seven steps: a free in-home survey, a Manual J load calculation per zone, a written fixed-price estimate, the county permit, the fit, commissioning with measured readings, and a handover file. A single-zone fit is normally one day. The agreed price does not move.
The office is staffed Monday to Friday, 8:00am to 5:00pm, and a call to 941-269-3433 in those hours reaches Courtney, who can put a survey slot on the calendar while you are still on the phone. There is no charge for the survey and no obligation at the end of it.
Not a salesman working on commission and not a subcontracted crew. The survey records the room dimensions, the glass area and which way it faces, the ceiling height, the insulation and the spare capacity at your electrical panel, and it checks whether the existing ducted system is failing that room rather than simply not reaching it.
An ACCA Manual J calculation per indoor head produces the BTU figure for each room, and the completed calculation is yours. Thomas Hoerig, co-founder and the AC expert in the business, is where the zone count and capacity questions land when a house is awkward — a two-storey addition, a lanai with a west wall of glass, a house that will be closed up half the year.
The estimate names the equipment, the capacity per head, the head positions, the line-set route and the total. Under the No Change Order Guarantee that total does not move, and anything missed at design stage is TLS’s cost.
A mini split is the system homeowners most often assume needs no permit, and it does. The Florida Mechanical Code requires one to install air conditioning equipment including ductless, and the licensed contractor files it. TLS files it under licence CAC1822364 and meets the county inspector at the house. You do not file anything.
Head position and line-set route are confirmed with you on the day before the three-inch penetration is cut. Joints are flared by hand and torqued to specification, the lines are evacuated below 500 microns before refrigerant goes in, and the condensate is run to a gravity drain where the fall allows it and to a pump where it does not — you are shown where the water leaves the building before anyone leaves. A single-zone fit is normally a one-day job; three and four-zone systems run to two or three days, and you are given that figure at the estimate rather than on the morning. Shoe covers and drop cloths go down, and under the Better Than We Found It Guarantee the room is left cleaner than it was found.
Each head is run and checked at its own thermostat and remote, static pressure is measured on any ducted equipment still in the house, and you are left with the paperwork: the Manual J calculation for each zone, the permit and inspection record, the model and serial numbers of the equipment fitted, and an invoice stating the warranty term.
That warranty runs from the installation date under Florida Statute § 559.957, because a Chapter 489 licensed contractor fitted it, and nothing you fail to post back inside sixty days can shorten it.
Ductless repair differs from ducted repair in three ways: the failure is usually at a flare joint rather than in a coil, the indoor blower wheel fouls in a way no filter prevents, and the electronics are brand-specific inverter boards rather than generic relays. Error codes replace guesswork on most modern units.
TLS repairs all four brands regardless of who fitted them, including units bought online and fitted by someone without a licence. When you call, Courtney will ask what the head is displaying, because on a modern mini split the error code narrows the fault before the van leaves Pinellas Park.
A ducted system fails in a different order, and those faults are covered under AC repair. Ordered by how often TLS finds them on ductless:
The blower wheel in a mini split’s indoor head is a narrow barrel with dozens of shallow blades sitting behind the coil.
Florida humidity and dust build a film on them that a filter never catches, and airflow drops before anyone notices the smell. Cleaning it means pulling the head.
The condensate drain in a ductless system is a narrow tube inside the line set, often with barely any fall and sometimes a small pump.
Blockage shows as water down the wall below the head, and it clogs faster here than anywhere because the coil runs wet eight months a year.
A flare joint is the hand-made copper connection at each end of a ductless line set, and it is the leak point ducted systems do not have.
Flared unevenly or torqued wrongly, it leaks slowly for two or three years and then presents as a system that ices up and cools poorly.
A thermistor is the small temperature sensor a mini split uses to decide what the compressor does next, and there are several in every head.
A failed one runs the system when the room is cold, refuses when it is hot, and throws an error code naming the sensor.
The inverter board is the electronics package that varies compressor speed, and it is the component that makes a mini split a mini split.
Boards fail from voltage events, moisture and heat, and are brand-specific, which is why availability rather than labour decides how long the repair takes.
Salt air attacks the aluminium fins of an outdoor coil on both Florida coasts.
A corroded coil rejects heat badly, so the system runs long and cools little, and once it leaks the repair is uneconomic.
The compressor is the most expensive component in a ductless system and almost never fails first.
It fails because a flare leak starved it of oil-carrying refrigerant, because moisture turned to acid, or because it was oversized and short cycled for eight years.
A TLS mini split repair visit starts with a $125 diagnostic, free for Comfort Club members, carried out by a TLS employee rather than a subcontractor. The fault is measured and identified, the repair is priced in writing before a panel comes off, and you decide. Static pressure is measured on any ducted equipment in the home.
A technician who has had these heads apart before, a van carrying the flare tools and the gauges a ductless diagnosis needs, and a fault found rather than guessed at. It is not a call-out charge that grows once the cover is off — the diagnostic is the diagnosis, and the repair price is quoted separately, in writing, before any work starts. Comfort Club members pay nothing for it.
Refrigerant pressures and superheat at the service port, the temperature split across the indoor coil, amp draw on the compressor and the fan motor, the error-code history stored on the inverter board, and the condition of the flare joints at both ends of the line set. Flare joints are checked first on ductless, because that is where the fault usually started. Static pressure is measured on any ducted equipment still in the house, which tells us whether the mini split is solving a comfort problem or hiding one.
A TLS employee in a TLS van, on the TLS payroll. No part of a ductless repair is contracted out, which is why the technician who worked on your head is the one still answering for it a year later. Each is background checked, live scanned and drug tested, and completes 150 hours of training a year. Outside office hours the same number reaches a TLS employee, not an answering service taking a message for the morning.
The fault, the part, the price and whether the repair is worth doing at all. On a unit past twelve years with a failed compressor or a leaking coil, the honest answer is often a replacement number rather than a repair, and we will say so. 100% of what you spend on repairs in a twelve-month period is credited toward a new system, so a repair now is not money thrown away if the replacement follows next summer.
TLS installs and repairs Mitsubishi Electric, Daikin, Fujitsu and LG ductless systems, and is not a dealer for any brand. A dealer has a commercial reason to recommend the equipment it carries and to steer a marginal repair toward a replacement it earns on. We specify the unit the room needs.
What goes on your wall is decided by the capacity the calculation asks for and by what can be got parts for in this market on a Tuesday. A mini split is a twelve-year decision at the very least, and the component most likely to fail on it is a brand-specific inverter board — so parts availability in Florida counts for more than the number on the efficiency sticker.
Where the four genuinely differ. Mitsubishi Electric and Daikin are the most commonly installed ductless brands in Florida and have the deepest parts network here, which shows as days rather than weeks when a control board fails. Fujitsu and LG run strong inverter platforms with a thinner local parts channel. Across all four, the gap between the entry-level line and the mid line is wider than the gap between the badges, which is why we will tell you which line to skip before we tell you which brand to buy.
TLS earns nothing extra for putting one badge on your wall rather than another. Independence has one consequence a homeowner can check: ask any contractor what they would install in your room and why that model. A dealer answers with the brand on the side of their van. The answer should name a capacity, and the capacity should come from a calculation.
New ductless systems ship with low-GWP A2L refrigerant: R-454B on Mitsubishi Electric’s US ductless range and R-32 across much of Daikin, Fujitsu and LG. Both replaced R-410A in new equipment from 2025. An existing R-410A mini split is not obsolete and can still be repaired and recharged.
TLS is equipped for A2L work — the tooling, the leak detection and the charge limits that a room’s volume sets. On your job you are told which refrigerant the quoted equipment ships with, and on an older unit you are told what a recharge costs this year before you choose between repairing it and replacing it.
Production steps down each year under the AIM Act toward roughly 15% of current output by 2036, and an EPA rule effective 27 July 2026 permits installing R-410A equipment made or imported before 1 January 2025 until stocks run out. Recharging a leaking R-410A mini split therefore gets dearer every year, so a large leak on an older unit is worth pricing against replacement rather than repeating annually.
They require different tooling, different leak detection and charge limits set by room volume. Living with one is no different from living with R-410A. Installing one is, which is another reason ductless is not a weekend project.
No. The federal 25C Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit — worth 30% of installed cost up to $2,000 on a qualifying heat pump or mini split — expired for equipment placed in service after 31 December 2025 under the One Big Beautiful Bill Act. No federal replacement exists in 2026.
A TLS estimate shows the price you actually pay, not a price net of a credit that no longer exists. Where a utility or income-qualified rebate is genuinely available in your county we will name the programme and let you claim it; we will not subtract a number from the total and leave you to discover it later.
Much of the ductless industry still advertises that $2,000 figure, and mini split pages are the worst offenders because the credit applied so cleanly to them. Anyone quoting a price net of a $2,000 federal credit in 2026 is either not current or hoping you are not.
Income-qualified rebate programmes funded under HEAR and HOMES continue to roll out state by state, and utility rebates exist in some Florida territories.
No. Installing a ductless mini split in Florida requires a licensed contractor and a permit, and handling refrigerant requires EPA Section 608 certification by law. Ductless attracts DIY installation more than any other category because pre-charged kits are sold direct to homeowners, and a self-made line-set connection voids manufacturer warranty coverage.
TLS is the licensed contractor on your job, which is what makes the warranty position below work in your favour rather than against you. Licence CAC1822364 goes on the permit, on the estimate and on the invoice, and checking it takes about thirty seconds.
Under Florida Statute § 489.128, a contract entered into by an unlicensed contractor is unenforceable in law or equity by that contractor. A cheap mini split installation from someone without a licence number is not a cheaper version of the same transaction — it is a different one, with no warranty and no recourse.
Under Florida Statute § 559.957, effective 1 July 2024, the full length of a manufacturer’s HVAC warranty runs from the installation date when installed by a contractor licensed under Chapter 489, and may not be conditioned on product registration. Every national mini split article still tells homeowners to register within sixty days or lose half their coverage; in Florida, for a licensed installation, that is no longer true. It is also the sharp end of the DIY question, because that clause does not apply to an installation you did yourself.
Under Florida Statute § 559.956, it passes to a home buyer as though they were the original purchaser, and no transfer fee may be charged.
Manufacturers deny warranty claims for uneven or cracked flares, brazing without a nitrogen purge, exceeding the approved line-set length, bending copper tighter than its minimum radius, and failing to evacuate below 500 microns with a documented gauge reading. Pre-charged line sets remove the charging step and none of the others, and the failure appears two or three years later.
Three things a homeowner can safely do: wash the indoor filters, rinse the outdoor coil, and keep vegetation clear of it.
Check the licence at myfloridalicense.com and confirm it reads Current, Active. Then ask three questions: was a Manual J load calculation run for each individual zone, is the technician an employee or a subcontractor, and is the price given in writing before work begins. Evasion on any of the three is itself the answer.
Ask TLS those three and the answers are yes, employee, and yes. The calculation is run per zone and handed to you, the technician on your job is on the TLS payroll, and the price is on paper before anything is ordered.
The load calculation question separates ductless installers. Anyone can hang a head on a wall. Working out that the room needs a 9,000 BTU head rather than the 12,000 the chart suggests takes twenty minutes of arithmetic most companies skip, and it is the difference between a dry room and a cold clammy one.
A TLS van carries a TLS employee, never a subcontracted crew. No part of a ductless installation or repair is contracted out, which is why the technician who mounted your indoor head is the one still answering for it a year later. Each is background checked, live scanned and drug tested, and completes 150 hours of training a year.
Run that check on us before you run it on anyone else:
Seth Hoerig owns TLS, and all seven guarantees are written down rather than implied. They apply to a ductless job exactly as they apply to a central system, including the full-year Totally Happy Guarantee: not happy, and the system comes out and the money goes back.
TLS Air Conditioning installs and repairs ductless mini splits in ten Florida counties: Pinellas, Hillsborough, Pasco, Hernando, Manatee, Sarasota, Charlotte, Lee, Collier and DeSoto — 151 communities from Tarpon Springs to Naples, run from one building at 6210 44th St N in Pinellas Park.
One building and one payroll. The technician who drives to Naples works out of the same Pinellas Park unit as the one who drives to Tarpon Springs, and there is no franchise or dispatch contractor in between.
Coastal addresses get a different conversation. A condenser three streets from the Gulf in Indian Rocks Beach or on a Cape Coral canal lives in salt air, and coil coating at installation is cheap next to a corroded outdoor unit at year eight.
Tell us when you call if the house sits empty part of the year. A property closed up for five months has a humidity problem rather than a temperature problem, and a mini split holding a low setpoint answers that better than a central system cycling twice a day.
These are the questions homeowners in Tampa Bay and Southwest Florida ask most often before booking a ductless installation or a mini split repair — lifespan, zone limits, noise, cleaning, what arrives in writing, and whether a whole house can go ductless.
Call 941-269-3433 — in office hours that reaches Courtney, who can put a technician or an estimate on your calendar while you are on the phone. Outside those hours the same number reaches a TLS employee, not an answering service.
A free estimate for a new ductless system comes with a load calculation per zone and a fixed price in writing. To book a repair, schedule service or call — the diagnosis is $125, free for Comfort Club members.
TLS Air Conditioning · Licence CAC1822364 · 6210 44th St N, Pinellas Park, FL 33781